I have seen the sadness of this summer where it seemed like it would never end. But then I have also seen the goodness. And I saw it on Tuesday August 12th, 2014 at 5-7PM at 12th Street where the third and final SURFING WITH SMILES event happened.



The conceptual idea of introducing Surfing to Kids with Special Needs was hatched by Lindsey Mercer, Chelsea Stephens, and Taylor Thomas. It has been an amazing event to witness. From the volunteers to the participants to the parents of these kids. Along the lines of the Wounded Warriors HIT THE BEACH where the volunteers get as much out of these events than the participants themselves

This last event had a special twist. It was attended by two bona fide Surf legends. Tom Carroll and Michael Baron. Pictured below with yours truly. They were in town doing a promo for TC's book at Cinnamon Rainbows.



Tom Carroll is a former two time World Champ who has surfed some of the biggest waves in the world. His infamous "SNAP" at Pipeline
is legendary. Those who know the true story will forever marvel at this image. The night before the Pipemasters at Pipeline TC gets a call from home with the terrible news about his sister being killed in an auto accident. He went out the next morning surfing his heat with a deep hidden energy, that he, and only he, can describe.



This was the result of that heat. This famous photo. The "Snap."

I realize that most surfers of today will look at this pic and say "Yea
so what? " Truth be told, in the big picture of today's contemporary surfing this is not a radical photo by today's standards. But back in
the day? This was INSANE.

It was an honor to meet TC. I had met MB before and have had custom shapes from him. The best thing was seeing their faces light up during the "Surfing With Smiles."

They were both at a loss for words. But not smiles.



TC and Crop along with Lindsey and Chelsea. At the after hour party where we all watched in complete awe, the showing of STORM SURFERS starring TC and Ross Clarke Jones.



That my friends is the subject of a whole other blog. Suffice it to say, riding those big mutant waves is something that I will never be able to fully understand. The drive and passion to want to surf those things is just completely foreign to me.



Because the result of any miscalculation could be deadly.

I was sort of aware of this past week being SHARK Week on the Discovery channel. But honestly? I never really gave it much thought. On Friday August 15th, 2014 my day couldn't have been any wilder. I started my day by surfing at the Wall at 8:00AM. I was having a blast. It was still waist to chest high and the water was so warm.

On my first wave someone dropped in on me. No biggie. I said nothing. Then I got a nice long right. I was feeling good. Shortly after, I just so happened to be sitting outside when a nice set popped up on the sandbar. 

A perfect head high left came right to me. I spun and took off. I made the drop and squirted by this long section, when lo and behold on the very inside, a large man with a long beard took off and went right???
I had to straighten out. "That was a left." I yelled. The guy was oblivious. He asked what I meant as we both paddled out. So I told him as best I could. He didn't get it.

"I was trying to turn to head in the same direction you were going." He says. "Really? Well then you would of dropped in on me. Either way, you were wrong. " He finally says "Well then I'm sorry." I accepted his apology and took my place back in the line-up.

A friend asked me how the wave was and I told him. The big guy overheard me telling my friend what had happened when he yelled..."Are you still talking about that? I said I was sorry!" I explained that I was answering his query about that wave. Then a few more disparaging remarks (from both of us) were bandied about I actually called him "Duck Dynasty "...I know that was wrong. But he was relentless. He would not shut up.

And then the bomb. He yelled across the line-up "FUCK OFF!"

"Whoa! You didn't just tell me to F-off?..." I paddled up to him like a buzz saw and well, long story short. He was asked to leave the area. And by "asking" I mean, I used my big voice. My BIG LOUD Voice. His friend intervened to say that "we should all relax and have fun." He did this while grabbing my board. My close Marine buddy heard the commotion and paddled over. They were both asked to leave the area. NOW. Thankfully they both did. Nobody got hurt. 

I paddled by a young boy after catching a few more waves and pointed out the cool looking clouds to him. "Do you see those clouds?" I asked. He shook his head. "Yeah." "It's more than just surfing out here. It's important for you to remember that. Take all of this in. This is all part of surfing."

After a few more long rides I went in. The day was still young so I
went North. I figured that one of those out of the way reefs might be working. I was right. I paddled out alone, and surfed this one left point for about an hour and a half. The clouds were beyond beautiful. And me without a camera. I could only stare up into the clouds and feel the warmth of the sun, and the cool westerly breeze on my face.

I asked my recently departed friends, if this was a sign. 

That's when I saw it. A shark. YES a shark! Here in NH.

Less than 50' from where I was sitting alone. A solid and firm dorsal fin. About a foot and a half tall. This was not a Basking Shark with a floppy dorsal fin or a sunfish. This was not a nurse shark. This was the real deal. Maybe a White or Blue. Or a Porbeagle or Mako. I watched it for a few minutes and then it went under coming towards me. I did not panic. Nor, did I move.



I caught a few more waves. And stayed there. I kept looking back at the shoreline to see if anyone else was seeing this. There was one woman in a pink workout suit sitting in a beach chair. I don't think she was aware of what was happening. It re-surfaced about a half hour later. And did the same thing. Just slowly cruising.

I felt oddly at peace.

After a while some others paddled out and I told them what I had seen. They all looked a little frazzled. I just smiled. I don't know why I smiled, I just did.

My only regret of this whole morning experience is, I didn't have any cameras with me. I only wanted to surf. And I did. Albeit with some bumps in the road...or should I say? " in the wave."

(The photo above is of a White Shark on the Cape).

You know what I tell people when they ask me "Are there sharks out there?" I always tell them. "Go down and put your finger in the water and taste it. If it's salty, then there's sharks out there!"

The other thing I tell them is..."If you are worried about sharks, then just make sure you always surf with someone who is slightly slower paddler then you."

"Surfing With Smiles and Sharks Heals All Wounds"